Le Sot l'y Laisse

Le Sot l'y Laisse (Paris)

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Anyone who thinks they’re flying off to Japan with Eiji Doihara is rather sot (or “stupid” in French)! Because this former Tokyo Bocuse alumnus loves French cuisine above all else, which he pampers at both lunch and dinner in his unfussy spot (white walls, black chairs, frosted globe lights and that’s all folks!). The night we went, his wife Akiko served us: a fresh potato, eggplant, eel and anchovy cream terrine; perfect lamb chops from the Pyrenees in an herb crust with a reduction, braised endives and black olive purée; before an incredible nectarine compote with verbena jelly, mint and blackberry sorbet. The rest of the menu is just as tantalizing: duck breast with crisp vegetables and a sweet and sour sauce, redfish and saffron risotto, red mullet with coco de Paimpol beans… // V.Z.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s something for everyone: red and white Menetou-Salon from Philippe Gilbert (€7.50 a glass), red and white Saint-Joseph from the Domaine Louis Chèze (€9), red Hautes-Côtes-de-Nuits from the Domaine Jean Tardy & Fils (€45 a bottle)…

PRICE: Set menus €22-28 (weekday lunch), à la carte €48-74.

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