Dandelion

Dandelion – which originates from the French term “dent de lion,” or “lion’s tooth” because of the jagged tooth-shaped edges of its leaves – is also the name of this excellent angular spot that has taken root in the 20th arrondissement. Planted in the 20th arrondissement by Morgane Souris (ex-Parcelles) and Antoine Villard (ex-Septime and Double Dragon), here’s a neo-bistro that doesn’t feel overly so – unfinished walls, vintage Italian light fixtures from the 1970s, Baumann-style chairs, bouquets of flowers by the neighboring floral designer Ortie – where you can nibble on bread from the Ten Belles bakery along with a few of the chef’s harmonious plates: incredible braised, almost caramelized, veal sweetbreads cooked on the barbecue, backed up by some crisp sautéed bok choy and balanced out by a potent anchoïade sauce; and masquerading as the dish of the day, a thick stew of incredibly tender pork cheeks from the Perche, with diced carrots and Kalamata olives, served atop some perfectly made Robuchon-style mashed potatoes; before a chou tropézien cream puff with both crème pâtissière and butter cream, with a rich vanilla flavor. Is Dandelion the new king of the Parisian jungle? // Omar Ciboulette

FEELING THIRSTY? : Morgane handles the drinks, serving a varied selection of natural wines like this melon de Bourgogne from the Domaine La Soeur Cadette (€9 a glass), an Alsatian pinot noir from the Rieffels (€41 a bottle), or, if you’re looking for something a little more niche, a grenache variant from the Canary Islands produced by Albaraha (€37). Otherwise, there are fresh herbal infusions of the day (€5 a glass) or locally-made La Délicieuse organic lemonade (€6 for 275 ml).
PRICE: : Dish of the day €20 (lunch), hors d’oeuvres €4-10, appetizers €12-15, mains €24-38, cheeses €13, desserts €9-11.