For the past 13 years, Greg Back (the owner of La Vierge) has been drawing in the locals to Les Pères Pop’, a dilapidated spot with leather armchairs worn down to the bone, French school chairs, a vintage radio and TV. You can drink there until two in the morning or make the most of the prix-fixe lunch menu for 17 bucks, especially since Matt Robertson (ex-Auberge de Chassignoles and Le Garde-Champêtre, and currently the chef of La Vierge) has thrown his grain of salt into the kitchen. The day we went for lunch: a generous burrata scooped up with a loaf from Ten Belles Bread; very fresh mullet served with roasted tomato and butter beans; before an orgasmic chocolate and salted caramel tart, prepared by the house pastry chef Isabelle Auzou. At night, it’s all about tapas, baby: Bayonne ham, Kalamata olives, chicharrónes, Comté cake… // J.R.
FEELING THIRSTY? Boxed wines (a natural Tarn Mauzac from Laurent Cazottes at €2.40 a glass, a red from the Cave de Saint-Chinian at €2.70…), organic lager from Craig Allan (€6 for 330 ml) or a Deck and Donohue beer on tap (€2.90 for a half-pint).
PRICE: Menu €13.50 to €17 (lunch), tapas €2-9 (dinner).