restaurant

Les Pères Populaires

Les Pères Populaires (Paris)

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For the past 13 years, Greg Back (the owner of La Vierge) has been drawing in the locals to Les Pères Pop’, a dilapidated spot with leather armchairs worn down to the bone, French school chairs, a vintage radio and TV. You can drink there until two in the morning or make the most of the prix-fixe lunch menu for 17 bucks, especially since Matt Robertson (ex-Auberge de Chassignoles and Le Garde-Champêtre, and currently the chef of La Vierge) has thrown his grain of salt into the kitchen. The day we went for lunch: a generous burrata scooped up with a loaf from Ten Belles Bread; very fresh mullet served with roasted tomato and butter beans; before an orgasmic chocolate and salted caramel tart, prepared by the house pastry chef Isabelle Auzou. At night, it’s all about tapas, baby: Bayonne ham, Kalamata olives, chicharrónes, Comté cake… // J.R.

FEELING THIRSTY? Boxed wines (a natural Tarn Mauzac from Laurent Cazottes at €2.40 a glass, a red from the Cave de Saint-Chinian at €2.70…), organic lager from Craig Allan (€6 for 330 ml) or a Deck and Donohue beer on tap (€2.90 for a half-pint).

PRICE: Menu €13.50 to €17 (lunch), tapas €2-9 (dinner).

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

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