Olivier Gaslain has been a cook for 25 years: his battle armor is still unscathed and his pâté en croûte, gizzard ravioli and other treats typical of Le Villaret are still flawless. The masterful chef (line-caught sole, Bresse chicken, Lozère lamb…) of this authentic neo-bistro makes tempting dishes, starting at lunchtime (menu €27): whelks wrapped up in a subtle seasonal vegetable rémoulade (asparagus, carrots, peas); a sumptuous and tender braised chuck steak in a claretsauce that’s not at all acidic, with fried lardons, mushrooms and parsley, and mashed potatoes; then a warm rhubarb clafoutis with homemade rhubarb sorbet. At night, the prices take flight and the dishes get even fancier: pan-roasted veal sweetbreads (€32), roasted pigeon and salsify with coriander (€23)… And to drink? There’s a Biblical wine collection, combining the accessible (Cévennes wine from the Domaine de Coulorgues for €6 a glass, a bottle from the Domaine Pic Saint Loup for €28) and the stuff of dreams (Montrachet 1999 from the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti for €4,000). Set menu and prix-fixe menu €22-27 (lunch). Other menus €35-55. À la carte €47-76. // G.D.