An unalterable bistro, Le Villaret recently got a makeover and lost a little of its old-fashioned charm. But that doesn’t matter much, given that Olivier Gaslain has upheld the standards of his good ol’ regional cuisine and is back in the kitchen. With big price tags (dishes from €24 to €40) and entirely rustic recipes, the menu proudly shows off: lamb brain beignets with sauce gribiche; smoked duck tartare; monkfish ragout with a creamy lobster bisque; young Racan chicken poached with St. George’s mushrooms…. Given the circumstances, the market menu for €35 is a godsend: a silky soup of rope-grown mussels intoxicated with saffron; thick cod steak with chorizo and ratatouille; a very fresh nectarine soup, caressed by verbena. The wine list is the strong suit of the house, with the great classics (Château Rayas, Coche-Dury…) and more modest bottles that are just as interesting (Bourgueil Racines de Mabileau for €34 a bottle, Saint-Péray from Cuilleron for €7 a glass…). Set menu €22-27 (weekdays at lunch), menus €35 to €55, à la carte €49-69. // H.S.P.