If the Boot fits… Lovers of Italian bistros will feel right at home on Rue Vitruve! Named after the countless caffè and ristorante called Moderno across the peninsula, this spot plays it casual in striking a neat balance between Puglia and Paris – its menu devoted to the former, its look (polished concrete floors, matte tables, a checkered mirror wall) and its prices firmly rooted in the latter. Squint a little and you could almost be in Taranto, hometown of chef-proprietor Francesca Aneda (ex-Le Comptoir near Gambetta), with Nunzio and Wally keeping things running smoothly in the dining room. That lunch, the hits kept coming: a glorious zizzona di battipaglia (the Campanian version of mozzarella) to tear into with white bread; molten smoked scamorza draped over radicchi, king oyster mushrooms and a balsamic reduction; then deeply comforting stuffed green cabbage packed with barley and artisanal sausage, a smattering of creamed broad beans and a dusting of pecorino romano. And for something sweet? Dessert offers a change of scenery with Basque cheesecake topped with summer berry coulis. · Maria Mariaux

FEELING THIRSTY? Aperitivo cocktails (like the Inès with mezcal, chili and elderflower at €12, or the Ginger Queer with gentian, cachaça, triple sec and ginger beer, €11), natural wines (a gewürztraminer from Sylvie Spielmann, €9 a glass) and a Negroni al Caffè to close things out (€11).

PRICE: Antipasti €11-16, mains €22-27, desserts €8-9, set menu €19-21 (weekday lunch).