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La Cordonnerie

Bar La Cordonnerie (Paris)

© La Cordonnerie

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Giving your soles a well-earned rest all day long – now there’s a plan! Behind the retro backlit sign of this former cobbler’s shop, spruced up with just the right amount of cool (dark wood, concrete, Art Deco sconces), Jonathan Schweizer (Café Les Deux Gares, Deux Gares Express, Le Goncourt) brings his café savoir-faire to the 20th arrondissement. This time around he’s teamed up with German chef and Ferrandi graduate Nora Hauber for a pan-European coffee shop by day (Trinci Tuscan coffee, sausage rolls from the neighboring Les Apaches butcher, smoked paprika obatzda cheese spread, oatmeal and raisin cookies), before the place slips into wine-bar mode by night, with plenty of nibbles and tipples to boot. And, like a true natural-wine evangelist, Jonathan keeps things firmly on the righteous path with a lineup of low-intervention bottles: Les Eaux Bonnes, a deep syrah-grenache from La Closerie de Belle Poule in Languedoc (€7 a glass), Pic-Cul, a lively ugni blanc from Les Agrions in Ardèche (same price) or Pet Nat Dead, an ultra-punky blend from Lambert Spielmann in Alsace (€37 a bottle). Soak it all up with some silky rillettes, hearty chickpea stew or Comté knödel dumplings with sauerkraut and crème fraîche. Safe to say these cobblers know how to keep the wine flowing! · Tami Taylor

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