Frédéric Lesire and Jonathan Schweizer had the bright idea of adding the word “express” for their new café at the Hôtel des Deux Gares! A slightly old-fashioned word that conjures up billowing steam, whether from a coffee machine or a locomotive. Sure, no one orders ”Garçon, deux express!” anymore, nor do they rush to catch the 8:47am express to Strasbourg, but the word still captures the spirit of speed perfectly. And since time is of the essence here, orders are fired off in a flash: a camembert and grated carrot sandwich – or a solid chicken, spinach and aioli alternative; butternut squash and white bean soup finished with a glug of olive oil; œuf mayo crowned with horse parsley; celery remoulade; Cantabrian anchovies; or a high-performance croque-monsieur with smoked butter and Lacaune ham, boasting a near-perfect soft-to-crunchy ratio and instant comfort appeal. Almost as soothing as the dreamy terrace view, gazing out into… the void. One last stop before heading down to the station, but what shall it be? Affogato or citrus tartlet? · Edgar Funkel

FEELING THIRSTY? Behind the bar sits a sharp selection of natural wines from Rieffel (crémant d’Alsace, Granite pinot blanc, pinot noir at €40, €37 and €35 per bottle), Ribiera (Les Canilles skin-contact clairette at €39) and Le Mazel (Vin de Soif grenache-carignan blend or Les Lèches grenache blanc-sauvignon at €35). Wines are also available by the glass (€6-8), alongside Leamo soft drinks (mate, ginger beer, €4.50) and Tanat coffee (€2-5).

PRICE: Breakfast €3-10, sandwiches €9-13, dishes €4-18, desserts €3-8.