In the culinary Commedia dell’arte, L’Arlequin pirouettes onto the Paris dining stage as a promising new act, led by a troupe of mischievous culinary tricksters: Pierre Wolff (formerly of Bambino), Alexandre Viala and Victor Rogier (who also run Café de la Musique at the Philharmonie de Paris). Set to the rhythm of spinning vinyl, this wood-paneled spot (save for a few distressed walls and crimson banquettes) sits somewhere between a bistro and a boudoir. In the kitchen, Antoine Griton (ex-Yard and Les Œillets) recites his dishes at speed: a chubby beef bourguignon croquette made for dunking in herby mayo; leeks vinaigrette bathed in buttermilk with lovage and oyster leaves; chicken supreme with shatteringly crisp skin, glistening in a coppery vin jaune sauce with morels; mi-cuit trout doused in a sprightly sorrel sauce, arm in arm with an elegant rösti; and to sweeten the deal, a light vanilla mille-feuille that leaves you wanting more. A delicious farce begging for an encore! · Harry Gobeur

FEELING THIRSTY? A juicy trove of wines, unearthed in their purest form: Les Sardines, a Burgundy chardonnay from the Robert-Denogent winery (€7 a glass), Code Zéro, an Aude syrah by Ex Materia (€36 a bottle) or a Beaujolais pinot noir by Jean-Claude Lapalu (€55). There’s also umeshu highball (€10) or a non-alcoholic Iessi spritz (€7 a glass).

PRICE: Snacks €9-15, appetizers €12-14, mains €24-29, desserts €7-10.