Fresh out of hell, Dante has taken over Rue de Paradis, where chef Rebecca Beaufour (who used to work at Le Grand Véfour, L’Espadon and L’Arpège) lights up the kitchen, bringing together thrill-seeking sinners and other members of the damned around devilishly well-made shared plates. Devoured in a space with angelic decor (high ceilings, powdery walls, velvet banquette seating) the night we went: perfectly prepared octopus paired with piquillo peppers and a lemon condiment; tiger’s milk with lots of coconut and coriander; steamed prawn and lobster dumplings to be gobbled up shamelessly; maleficent, juicy, slow-cooked pork bao buns; thunderous charred tomatoes glazed in a tomato water reduction infused with vanilla; and to save our souls, a celestial pavlova topped with mango, whipped cream and passion fruit, or a demonic vanilla maritozzo, an Italian cream bum. If this is what hell is like, we’re ready for Judgement Day! // Henriette Ma
FEELING THIRSTY? Sensational organic/natural bottles: a Burgundy Sauvignon from Dominique Gruhier (€8 a glass), an Hérault Grenache from the Château Del Ranq (€55 a bottle), a Catalan Xarello produced by Pepe Raventós (€40)…
PRICE: Small plates €8-22, big shared plates €35-200, cheeses and desserts €6-11.
