Dumbo Petites-Écuries

Restaurant Dumbo (Paris, 10e)

© Félix Dol Maillot

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Charles Ganem and Samuel Nataf have struck (fat) again! After delighting the Paris scene with their iconic spot in Pigalle (winner of Le Fooding’s Best Burger of 2020 award), they decided to do some remodeling on Rue des Petites-Écuries. That’s where the latest Dumbo location serves the best smash burgers in Paris to an in-the-know crowd, who refuse to let the new shop’s incognito look fool them (cream-colored façade, a barely-there sign, a white countertop). Devoured standing up at the bar (as tradition requires), the day we went for lunch: a carefully made burger on a shiny potato bun, a smashed patty with beautifully crispy edges, cheddar, onions, pickles, mustard and ketchup, paired with thin, double-fried French fries. Also available à la carte: the star of the house given the vegan treatment, a buttermilk fried chicken sandwich (which they had run out of the day we went), and apple pie for a tasty finale – if there’s any left… In short, an unfussy lunch that’ll leave you daydreaming about your next visit. // Jean Pascal

FEELING THIRSTY? Just as simple as a good burger: Coke (€2), bottled water (€2) or a can of the house’s barley malt beer (€4).
PRICE: Burgers €10-12, fried chicken €6, fries €3, apple pie €3.

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