Cool boys Hugo Audoire (ex-À la Bonne Mer) and Émile Bonnin’s (ex-Casa Gala) futuristic saloon is making waves in the whirlwind Faubourg Saint-Denis neighborhood. And chef Nicolas Ricouard (ex-Mary Celeste) brings it come rain or shine. Tasted the night we went: tender smoked salmon from the Poiskaï smokehouse, served with sweet mustard, pickled red onions and cucumbers; an incredible chickpea pancake topped with black tahini, pan-fried butternut squash and cauliflower, plus homemade harissa; before a stratospheric whole fried quail coated in panko, served with aioli and a spicy cucumber salad. Coveted on a nearby table, intriguing pan-fried shiitake and oyster mushrooms with siphoned goat cheese in a dashi broth, and an indecent hanger steak with Roscoff onions, matchstick fries and jus de viande. // Louise Delange 

FEELING THIRSTY? Low-intervention wines from the region and further away: a Languedoc white from the Château Beauregard Mirouze (€6 a glass), a Beaujolais from Karim Vionnet (€32 a bottle), L’AngeLou, a Languedoc pet’ nat’ produced by Jérôme Galaup (€40), L’Excentrique, an Ardèche Merlot from Gregory Guillaume (€37)… 
PRICE: À la carte €32-50, XXL cuts of meat €60-70.