Head into the eye of the Tempête! In the bustling Faubourg Saint-Denis neighborhood, the futuristic saloon of cool dudes Hugo Audoire (ex-À La Bonne Mer) and Émilie Bonnin (ex-Casa Gala) is causing quite a stir, while chef Nicolas Ricouard (ex-Mary Celeste) spices things up in the kitchen. We nibbled on all of the following the night we went: tender slices of salmon from the Poiskaï smokehouse, paired with sweet mustard, pickled red onion and cucumber; a stunning chickpea pancake topped with black tahini, pan-fried butternut squash and cauliflower with homemade harissa; before a stratospheric whole quail fried in panko breadcrumbs, balanced out with aioli and a spicy cucumber salad. Eyeballed longingly on nearby tables: an intriguing plate of pan-fried shiitake and oyster mushrooms with goat cheese siphoned over a dashi broth, and an indecent hanger steak with Roscoff onions, matchstick fries and jus de viande. // Louise Delange
FEELING THIRSTY? Additive-free bottles, from near and afar: a Languedoc white from the Château Beauregard Mirouze (€6 a glass), a Beaujolais from Karim Vionnet (€32 a bottle), L’AngeLou, a Languedoc pet’ nat’ by Jérôme Galaup (€40), L’Excentrique, an Ardèche Merlot from Gregory Guillaume (€37)…
PRICE: À la carte €32-50, XXL cuts of meat €60-70.
