Here’s a Korean restaurant that whispers rather than shouts! At the helm of Ma-Shi-Ta (meaning “delicious” in Korean), the duo Gibeom Joung (former travel guide writer) and Sookhyun Kim (ex-Air France flight attendant) champion a quietly exacting vision of Korean cuisine: refined local ingredients, carefully chosen producers and unpretentious dishes, all served in a minimalist, almost anonymous white-and-gray space. As for that evening’s menu, it spoke volumes: gamtae jumeokbap, three neat rice balls stuffed with spicy beef, wrapped in seaweed; or shrimp salad with cucumber, lotus root and pine nuts, more restrained but no less satisfying; then, bibimbap topped with impeccably hand-cut Limousin steak tartare; or the irresistible maekjeok – Iberian pork loin lacquered with sweet soybean paste, produced daily in limited quantities; before finishing with classic ice creams, yuzu cakes, matcha madeleines or a selection of traditional Korean sweets, including a kind of mini puffed rice pastry and walnuts wrapped in dried persimmon. The ultimate experience from a culinary UFO steeped in pure gastronomy. · Herber Martin

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s something for every mood among the myriad of drinks: Makgeoli rice wine from Yunguna Brewery (€10 a glass); a natural Loire white from Nicolas Reau (€38 a bottle) or, for something more understated, a black rice and sunchoke tea from Bohyang Dawon (€5.50) or aloe vera and pear juice (€6 for 250 ml).

PRICE: Set menus €16.50 to €19.50 (lunch), appetizers €9-14, mains €18-25, desserts €6-13.