Bistrotters (Paris)

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Despite what you might imagine because of its name, Bistrotters doesn’t really cook cuisine from far away – on the contrary! In their classy bistro (original hardwood floors, an old-school zinc bar, glass paste lampshades), Adrien Desveaux-Toutain and Manon Kervella play the seasonal, locavore (ingredients from Ile-de-France) card. The other day at lunch, Uruguayan chef Martin de los Santos’s menu gave us a fine demonstration: a cheeky andouille and pig ear meatball lit up by fried jalapeños and hoisin sauce; pork belly that was crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, served with fennel and a cider sauce; before an addictive French toast with salted caramel and crunchy chocolate. // D.C.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a multiregional wine list: an Alsace-Riesling from the Domaine Bernhard & Reibel (€9 a glass), a Sancerre white from the Domaine Vacheron (€55 a bottle), a Crozes-Hermitage from Yann Chave (€61)…

PRICE: Menus €19-23 (weekday lunch), €33-37.

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