A wine shop stocked with serious bottlers in Montrouge – who’d a thunk it? Rémy Chauchoy certainly did, when he set up this cozy hideaway just a stone’s throw from the town hall, easily spotted by its red-and-white sign. An early convert to the natural wine movement, he’s gone all in, curating a tight, well-judged lineup of both wine and hops. So naturally, the shelves brim with craft beers and natural wines alike. On the beer front: Stout Toujours from Versailles-based brewery O’Clock (€3.80 for 330 ml), Icauna pale ale from Brasserie Popihn in the Yonne (€5.30 for 440 ml) or even Moment of Silence, a Polish NEIPA from TakeBusters co-fermented with white grape juice (€6.50 for 500 ml). As for the grape side of things: a Costières-de-Nîmes from Domaine de Périllière (€9.50 a bottle), Trouss’oh from the Fruitière Vinicole de Pupillin in the Jura (€23) or Gare du Nord, a grenache by Delphine and Frédéric Agneray of La Grange du Nord in the Gard (€17). All dispensed with warm, expert advice, guided by an owner whose smooth patter still bears traces of an international business past. · Marie Nade

THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: Oiseau Tonnerre, a supple pinot noir and gamay blend by Julien Merle in Beaujolais – a bottle Rémy guards like treasure (€18).