The Prix Goncourt for the most beautiful almost-gastronomic experience goes to… Occasion! Just a stylish stride from Avenue Parmentier, chefs Candice Brée (ex-Pages and Gaya) and Margaux Baju (ex-Pouliche and Le Perchoir), with a touch of magic from architect Justin Meuleman, have created a total work of art, curated from floor to ceiling like a gallery of Parisian good taste. Mid-century banquettes, Breuer chairs, Strateg cutlery and vintage shell-shaped butter dishes schmooze with cuisine that’s as aesthetic as it is unpretentious. On our forks that evening: delicate raw scallops paired with mandarin marmalade and hay-smoked butter; a ravioli duo – one stuffed with ricotta, sea lettuce and dulse, the other with artichoke and tonka bean – reclining in a broth of artichoke leaf, bergamot and sea lettuce broth; generous fillet of hake, slow-cooked and skin torched to crisp perfection, flirting with a silky brown-butter emulsion; and to finish, cider-poached apple cosseting buckwheat ganache. The final flourish? A deliciously golden Sichuan pepper madeleine, drizzled with salted caramel and dusted with powdered scallop coral. And the People’s Choice Award? That goes to the Pompeii-style mosaic floor, best admired in mild bewilderment while you’re in the loo. · Margot Mijo

FEELING THIRSTY? French wines handpicked by Margaux: P’tit Roques, a mauzac from Domaine Puech Roques (€7 a glass), a skin-contact chardonnay from Georges Descombes (€12) or Brume Électrique, a mourvèdre from Bonyvresse in Roussillon (€46 a bottle). Alternatively, there’s house-made kombucha in carrot or spent coffee flavors (€6 a glass).

PRICE: Set menus €49 (four courses, weekdays) and €59 (five courses, weekends).