Åke Table & Vin
The brilliant Linda Granebring has got a brand new hangout! After doing a stint at Au Quai wine bar on Rue d’Alibert, the Swedish chef (formerly of Broken Arm) and her accomplice, Julien Jack Alda, have started serving their own bottles and dishes a mere 130 meters away. They’ve given an old bar a country-style makeover (whitewashed walls, timeworn hardwood floors, a terrace lined with potted fig and lemon trees), where they send out deliciously rustic dishes, sprinkled here and there with magical herbs… For us the other night: delicious pan-fried carrots and grilled peaches drizzled in a little browned butter with carrot tops, on a bed of creamy labneh; incredible porchetta with thyme, shaved raw fennel and a delicately stewed apple sauce; before a perfect fresh almond parfait punched up with an incredible cacao-juniper sauce – or an elderflower panna cotta. Another option that we noticed on the next table over: golden gnocchi with burrata and lovage-infused salt… // R.deC.
FEELING THIRSTY? A playlist of natural wines put together by Julien: an Ardèche red from the Mas de l’Escarida (€6 a glass), an Alsace-Sylvaner from the Domaine Clé de Sol (€35 a bottle) or, selected from a few of the big vintages at reasonable prices, a Gevrey-Chambertin Ostrea from the Domaine Trapet (€90).
PRICE: Plates €8-16.