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    Noon to 2:30pm and 7pm to 11pm. Closed Sunday and Monday.  Since moving Gaya onto Rue Saint-Simon, the veteran chef Gagnaire has been sailing full speed ahead with his briny seafood restaurant. In a space with fine woods, golden scaled light fixtures and Carrare marble under their elbows, the big fish of the Left Bank come to enjoy the great Pierre’s electric dishes. Featured on the menu the day we went for lunch: an ecstatic tuna and meagre tartare dipped into a chilled sunchoke velouté; crispy roasted pollack fillet with barely seared squid and a chorizo and coco de Paimpol bean brunoise, all moistened by a Nantes beurre blanc sauce; before a lovely coffee cake with plum compote. On the four-course dinner menu: a green curry mushroom velouté with poached egg and culatello; Cévennes onion, chard and Cantal gratin; scallops with pear, kohlrabi, red kuri squash and radicchio; a rose and poppy flower tart with pomegranate and marshmallow… For any meat-heads out there, the à la carte selection is mouthwatering: Venetian-style veal liver, grilled lamb chops, etc.  FEELING THIRSTY? An incredible selection of wines: an Hautes-Côtes-de-Nuits red from Alain Jeanniard (€13 a glass), a Muscadet from Jérôme Bretaudeau (€43 a bottle), a natural Pouilly-Fumé from Pascal Jolivet (€65).  PRICE: Tasting menus €43-49 (lunch) and €80 (dinner), à la carte €54-108, shellfish platter €95 for two.

Gaya (Paris)

© Jacques Gavard

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