restaurant

Racines des Prés

Racines des Prés (Paris)

© Lisa Klein Michel

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Crimson bricks, a marbled counter, leather banquettes, hanging mirrors… Ever since serial-bistrotter David Lanher (La Crèmerie, Le Bon Saint Pourçain, Anima…) opened this charming restaurant across from the Saint-Thomas-d’Aquin church, office workers on Rue du Bac file in, mouths open and eyes closed, as the French expression goes. The man responsible for the madness? Alexandre Navarro, a talented chef who trained under the greats (Ducasse, Constant…), who sends modernist plates out from his kitchen. Served à la carte the day we went for lunch: a delicious fried zucchini blossom stuffed with zucchini, feta and pine nuts, lounging on a bed of zucchini and Parmesan purée; incredible pearly white cod in an addictive smoked butter sauce, served with plump gnocchi and watercress; before a heady coconut-lemon blancmange served with a divine summer berry coulis. At lunch, the prix-fixe menu is worth bragging about – eg.: Albacore tuna ceviche with tomatoes; hake fillet with coco de Paimpol beans and a shellfish emulsion; a Sicilian lemon cream with an activated charcoal meringue and bergamot sorbet… // T.K.

FEELING THIRSTY? Naturalist wines: a Cheverny red or white from the Domaine des Huards (€9 a glass), a Minervois from Jean-Baptiste Senat (€47 a bottle), a Sancerre from the Domaine Vacheron (€59)…

PRICE: Menu €36-42 (lunch), €54 and €65 (dinner, food and wine pairings +€25 and €45), à la carte €41-72.

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
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