Thibault Sombardier is seeing triple! Already the happy owner of neo-bistros Sellae and Mensae, the chef has crafted the menu for this restaurant housed within the flamboyant Hôtel Pavillon Faubourg Saint-Germain. The spot in question? A chic, shiny brasserie with 1930s decor, curved wood, velvet banquette seating and globe light fixtures, where Matthieu Pirola (Akrame Benallal’s former executive chef) really knocks it out of the park. The night we went featured: exhilarating hand-cut steak tartare with smoky eel and a preserved egg yolk; or heady escargot ravioli and peas in a light vegetable broth; classic vol-au-vent made with golden flaky pastry and a mix of shrimp, mussels, monkfish and mushrooms, plus Normand sauce; which we preferred to the Landes yellow chicken supreme served with artichoke purée and a mushroom emulsion. All that, before the meticulously prepared desserts: a cream puff stuffed with Grand Marnier infused orange compote, a nod to a crêpe Suzette, or a pistachio soufflé with raspberry and orange blossom ice cream. Paris is truly a feast! // Pica Bidon
FEELING THIRSTY? A very high-end collection of French bottles: a Chablis from the Domaine De Oliveira Lecestre (€12 a glass), a Tours Chenin from Bonnigal-Bodet (€50 a bottle), a Pic-Saint-Loup from Le Clos Marie (€73 a bottle)… It’s also worth noting that the James Joyce, the hotel bar, also serves its herbaceous cocktails at the restaurant (starting at €17).
PRICE: Set menus €34-39 (weekday lunch), à la carte €55-102.
