Frequented by the crème de la crème of the neighborhood, Julien Cohen’s (Grazie, Pizza Chic, Professore) and Pascal Balland (Cinq-Mars) planet Mars is meant for all those who don’t enjoy kitsch pizzerias. Dressed in shades of white with exposed wooden rafters and a tiled bar, light drips down on the Carrara marble tables, themselves topped with glorious red or white pizzas. On the delicious dough that’s been matured for four days, you’ll find the who’s who of Italian delicacies… For us, it was the Splendida with fleur de lait, Gorgonzola, Parma ham aged for 16 months and arugula (€16), and the Sorrentina with tomato sauce, mozza di bufala and cherry tomatoes (€18). So many pizzas eroticized by the flames of the wood-fired oven, preceded by a radiant octopus salad with lemon and olive oil (€15), and finished off with a happiness-inducing, cloud-like and zebra-striped tiramisu (€10). To drink, there’s a chilled white Masieri from Veneto (€7.50 a glass) or a powerful red Sicilian SP68 from Arianna Occhipinti (€52 a bottle). Antipasto €9-19, pizzas €14-21, desserts €9-12. // M.J.-D.