Sellae (Paris)

© Sellae

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There’s a gothic paleontology library on one side, and the police station’s busy garage on the other, and sitting between the two you’ve got the third spot from Thibault Sombardier (Antoine, Mensae): a grey & white bistro called Sallae (“chairs” in Latin), with lots of mirrors and Nordic furniture. The day we went for lunch, the dishes on chef Matteo Vianello’s (ex-Thoumieux) à la carte menu were all good: elegant escargot ravioli in a creamy garlic broth with toasted panko breadcrumbs; tender veal rump served medium rare with a crispy risotto galette, baby porcini mushroom fricassee and a full-bodied jus; before the signature dessert, a heady chocolate mousse served warm, paired with vanilla ice cream and a fleur de sel crumble topping. // A.B. and M.R.

FEELING THIRSTY? Forty-some labels to choose from: a Roussillon red from Cylia and Laurent Pratx (€8 a glass), an Anjou Chenin from the Château de Bois-Brinçon (€52)… LES PRIX : Menu-carte 38 €. Carte 44-46€.

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