Caluche

…And God created the bistro! In a former seedy pub in the Mouffetard neighborhood, the tireless Benjamin Fourty (former manager of the Café de la Nouvelle Mairie) opened this tiny bistro, decorated by interior designer Marie Carmarans – coffee-toned mosaic floors, a black marble bar, a well-stocked wine cellar visible behind glass, a peaceful terrace. Benjamin Augier de Moussac, a former sous-chef turned executive chef (ex-Garance) keeps bellies satiated with straightforward cooking, which pairs swimmingly with the wines served by the glass or “en caluche” (slang for “by the bottle” in local Angers slang). Nibbled at lunch: indulgent roasted tomato and pepper gazpacho topped with a very simple basil pesto; dry-aged blue ling paired with silky leeks, spring onions and a creamy white wine sauce, perfect for dipping the bread from Thierry Breton into – a more exciting offering than the plate of vegetables we noticed on the next table over; before a fig and plum crumble topped with whipped cream. At dinner, grab a seat on the still uncovered terrace and dig into the small plates, like hard-boiled eggs with herbed mayonnaise, garlicky toasts topped with bone marrow, zucchini galettes with feta and Greek yogurt, or coco de Paimpol beans glazed in a red wine sauce. FYI: after the long days of summer are over, it’s back to a menu with more generous sized plates and wild game from the Meuse. // Vic Beretton

FEELING THIRSTY? When it comes to the “caluches,” there are over 150 natural labels to choose from, including a Cheverny from the Domaine Tessier (€7 a glass), Pink Bulles from Jean Maupertuis (€35 a bottle), a 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin produced by Fanny Sabre (€189) or even a magnum of Les Perrières, a Bourgueil from the Bretons (€170)… And as early as 9 o’clock in the morning, there’s quality espresso from L’Arbre à Café (€2.90).

PRICE: Set menu €33 (lunch), appetizers €11-18, mains €25-35, desserts €11.