Caluche (Paris)

© Le Caluche

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…And God created the bistro! After a year of renovations, the tireless Benjamin Fourty (former manager of the Café de la Nouvelle Mairie) and interior designer Marie Carmarans opened up this tiny spot (coffee-toned mosaic floors, a black marble bar, a well-stocked wine cellar visible behind glass, a chill terrace) where the Mouffetard neighborhood’s grimy local pub used to be. Nowadays, the young chef Jonathan Gru (ex-Bel Ordinaire) keeps bellies satiated with straightforward cooking, which pairs so nicely with the natural nectars served by the glass or by the “caluche” – which means “bottle” in local Angers slang. The other night we had: comforting whole pig’s ear that was both crispy and gelatinous, with a finely chopped persillade and a refreshing verjus vinaigrette; a generous portion of perfectly flash-seared cuttlefish served on a bed of grilled figs and zucchini (an incredible pairing!), all glistening with the cooking juices – or a hearty roasted quail with lemony buttered corn on the side; before a chocolate tartlet on a shortbread crust for a timeless dessert…. A classic neighborhood joint, baby! // Aïtor Alfonso

FEELING THIRSTY? When it comes to the “caluches,” there’s plenty to choose from: an Alsatian Pinot noir from Jean-Pierre Rietsch (€6 a glass), an Aveyron white from Nicolas Carmarans (€42 a bottle), a Bandol red from the Château Sainte-Anne (€49)…

PRICE: Plates €8-29.

Late-night munchies?

Le Fooding’s 2023 Guide is ready to dazzle with its brilliant selection of the year’s latest hotspots, including 500 restaurants, bars, bedrooms, shops and cellars across France; a highly-anticipated award’s list; and ever-more enlightening in-depth articles sprinkled throughout the extravagant, 228-page edition of the yearly magazine, illustrated by the crème de la crème of emerging artists.

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

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