Restaurant Calice (Paris)

© Simon Detraz

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In search of the Holy Grail (“Calice” is French for chalice) near Rue Mouffetard? Julien Alain, Thomas Legrand and Kazuma Chikuda, the clique behind the restaurant Narro, have handed over their precious Calice to chef Louis Fedide (ex-Gavroche in London) and his sous-chef Nicolas Most (ex-Flonflon in Paris). The space in question? An ochre dining room with wide leather banquettes and elegantly set tables, a big marble-teak bar where you can cozy up solo or as a duo, and an open kitchen where the two chefs are hard at work: slow-cooked leeks lightly grilled over binchotan charcoal, covered in a vin jaune sabayon, sesame crumble, clementine curd and peppery herbs (purslane, marigold, oxalis); perfectly balanced hake fillet with more sabayon prepared as a Cognac-infused bisque this time around, lightly vinegary raw fennel salad, fermented pear and wild garlic; and a dessert worthy of a grandma sporting sequined Air Max shoes, aka rice pudding with an intensely flavorful caramel tuile, plus roasted mango and thyme, passion fruit sorbet and a lime emulsion, all prepared by the pastry chef Kaori Akazawa. // Yves Inoveritas

FEELING THIRSTY? : Thomas keeps an eye on his lovely selection of organic and natural nectars: a Roussillon skin-contact wine from Le Clos Massotte (€10 a glass), Albert, a Burgundy Aligoté from the Domaine Derey (€50 a bottle), Les Vianderies, a Jura chardonnay from the Domaine de la Renardière (€64)… Along with Larme du Pèlerin calvados aged in bourbon barrels (€17 for 40 ml).
PRICE: : Set menus €28-34 (weekday lunch), small plates €12-19, shared cuts of meat €55-140 (dinner and weekend lunch).

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