Flocon

Eating well on Rue Mouffetard used to be unthinkable until the Flocon brothers opened up their neo-bistro: a wood-clad haven with blue and white tones and a garden courtyard where Alexis (front of house) and Josselin (the chef) grow their own herbs. The day we went, we had thin slices of celery marinated with dill, dipped into a voluptuous cauliflower and caramelized pine nut cream; pearl barley dahl cleverly pimped out with roasted squash and seasoned with some intensely flavorful pickled cucumber, lemon and green harissa. There was very little choice at dessert: a pear preparation or a cheese course. The former was slow-cooked and placed on a bed of well-made rice pudding, seasoned with a chic trio of fennel seeds, paprika and cumin. The latter was composed of saint-nectaire, served with a surprising duo of peach and sucrine lettuce. // Vin Beretton

FEELING THIRSTY? There are a hundred wines to choose from, half of which are natural: Métaphysique des Cuves produced by Julie Karsten in the Côtes-du-Rhône (€7 a glass), Une et mille nuits, a Languedoc white from the Domaine Canet Valette (€30 a bottle), Chuck, a sparkling gamay from La Sorga (€40). And for dry summers, herbal teas made using herbs from the garden (€4.50 for a teapot).
PRICE: Set menus €27-30 (Friday and Saturday lunch), à la carte €54-59.