Gone are the days of subpar meals in the Mouffetard neighborhood, as late-night diners now have a home at Otto! Run by friends Stéphane Offner and Tony Alvarez-Parage, this hot spot, centered around a monumental kitchen island, brings together a wooden bar, a few seats, hearty grilled meats and a handful of bottles. The other night, the Meilleur Ouvrier de France chef Éric Trochon, who is a partner in this affair, slipped away from Solstice in order to forge a few dishes over the binchotan charcoal: flank steak served bloody and paired with a chimichurri that unfortunately didn’t set our taste buds ablaze; thinly sliced suckling pig over fromage frais with fresh mint, and a smoking hot harissa and gochujang sauce… To go with all that? A few snacks to nibble on if you come as a group: tantalizing barbajuans (Alpes-Maritimes-style chard leaf and pine nut fritters); plump arancini lounging over a tomato / onion / pepper / piment d’Espelette compote; before a comforting honey crème brûlée for dessert. // Pica Bidon

FEELING THIRSTY? Additive-free bottles, including a Larzac white from Le Pas de l’Escalette (€10 a glass) and an Auvergne Gamay from Patrick Bouju (€72 a bottle).
PRICE: Set menus €19-24 (lunch), small plates €9-15, desserts €7-9.