Working alone in his one-room-restaurant (an open kitchen and high tables for a dozen diners), Eric Lévy chops, pan-fries, serves and preaches the gospel of good food in a unique ambiance that feels like dinner at a friend’s place. The night we went, his stunning eight-course menu with Mediterranean influences featured translucent slices of raw and pickled radish, preserved lemon and some blessed tomatoes; classy foie gras with a dash of grape jam; impressively fresh mackerel breaded in coconut powder, bluefin tuna steak from Sète served raw with avocado and a raspberry vinaigrette; delicious mussels in a vanilla/curry jus (!); an exotic Breton brill seasoned with ras el-hanout, rose and pistachio, paired with sautéed squid, zucchini and cauliflower; beef stew made with dry-aged sautéed chuck steak and thick flank steak, crisp carrots and a red wine reduction; before two disarmingly simple desserts, a mixture of watermelon and caramelized pineapple in an incredible strawberry jus, followed by a thin apple tart. FYI: the whole table gets served the exact same menu. // A.B.
FEELING THIRSTY? The chef recites a small selection of wines for guests: a Touraine white from Bonnigal et Bodet (€5 a glass), a Bugey red from Yves Duport (€8), a Côtes-du-Rhône red from the Domaine Saint-Préfert (€35 a bottle) or a Saint-Romain white from the Domaine Matrot (€45).
PRICE: Set menu €45-60 (six or eight courses).