Gare aux Vins

If an overwhelming desire for fermented grapes strikes as you step off the train, head to this wine bar located just a stone’s throw from Gare de Lyon! There, you’ll meet Rémi Merceron, Nicolas Petremann and Ching Du, all three of whom trained at Le Pavillon Ledoyen, and who have 450 good, mostly natural bottles to win you over with. A few notable options include: Poivre d’Âne, an Hérault white that combines vermentino, grenache blanc, grenache gris and roussanne varietals (€4 a glass), a Burgundy pinot noir from the Domaine Jeanson-Parigot (€34.50 a bottle) and a macerated pinot gris from the Anjou winemaker Pauline Lair (€17.50). Sip one (without having to pay a corkage fee!) on the terrace or at a bistro table across from the open kitchen, all while nibbling on a Cap Hispania Iberian charcuterie board or a cheese plate sourced from the Marché d’Aligre, along with a few small plates (olive bread, tuna guacamole…) or even the menu of the week at lunch time – featuring, for example: Comté soufflé; chicken strips with carrot purée and a mushroom sauce; chocolate lava cake and vanilla ice cream. // Daphné Miller 

THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: Hasta La Viszla, a pet’ nat’ made with riesling, pinot blanc and pinot gris grapes vinified in the Bugey region by Lisanne Van Son (€21.50)