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In their fine foods shop on Rue de Prague, Olivier Michelet and his acolyte Nathalie Agnosini practice the art of controlled-origin Mediterranean flavors. It’s a living language that resonates throughout the wood-filled dining room with shelves overflowing with sunny gems and fine natural bottles. On the big wooden table, on the terrace or squeezed in around a wine barrel, it’s all about tapas and wine: comforting artisanal raw milk burrata; bresaola carpaccio alla tirolese with shaved Parmesan; a tasty leek and sesame sandwich spread… Seen on our tablemates’ plates: big oily Cantabrian anchovies, a plate of Bellota ham sliced as thin as lace, and a thin piadina romagnola with prosciutto crudo, mortadella and grilled vegetables, served with mixed greens. Not to mention the good Sorrento limoncello baba, lemon cream and candied bergamot. // A.D.

FEELING THIRSTY? Delicious natural bottles: an Assyrtiko white from Crete (€6 a glass), a lovely Roussillon white from Wilfried Valat (€26 a bottle), a striking Aude red from Alexandre Coulange (€22); craft Sulauze beers (€5 for 330 ml) and delicious Italian Gasco sodas (€4 for 250 ml).

PRICE: Small plates €5-18, sandwiches €8.

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