In his angular Roman taverna (terrazzo floors, light wood furniture, an open kitchen, floor-to-ceiling windows), Giovanni Passerini masterfully celebrates French-Italian friendship with his mouthwatering cuisine. The day we went for lunch, we had all of the following: line-caught Albacore tuna marinated in harissa, divinely caught up in a juicy panzanella salad with tangy gooseberries; spinach and ricotta ravioli snatched up from his neighboring Pastificio, draped in sage butter that’s anything but an afterthought; followed by a classic blueberry tart served with a scoop of luscious orange blossom ice cream. // Daphné Miller

FEELING THIRSTY? A natural wine list that’ll knock your boots off by Justine Prot : a Sicilian white from the Mortellito winery (€12.50 a glass), a Bianchdusèt produced by Alessandra Bera (€78 a bottle), an Anglianico from the Camerlengo Antelio winery in Puglia (€46 a bottle)… in addition to a few unusual options, like the Denavolo Dinavolino straight from Emilia-Romagna, an orange wine aged on lees (€10 a glass).
PRICE: Tasting menu €52 (weekday lunch), à la carte €54-71, pasta €26-31, shared plates €85-150.