Godaille

Happy are the flock of the Ledru-Rollin neighborhood, ever since Étienne Aubron and Derick Fortes Rocha have added this nifty little joint to their Pur Vin wine shop. With Godaille (slang for restaurant debauchery), among leather chairs and old newspaper prints, these two preachers of good booze also show promise, hands on their stomachs, backed by Mickaël Bui (ex-Tomy & Co) in the kitchen. And that day, the latter indeed went above and beyond with a lunch menu duly devoured on the terrace opposite Square Trousseau: unstoppable heirloom tomatoes coated in a herb vinaigrette, served with a shitake mushroom condiment and ricotta; seared hake with the skin all crispy like it should be, paired with a tomatoey lentil ragu topped with crunchy Swiss chard; and a massive chocolate mousse, Tahitian vanilla ice cream and chocolate-coated corn flakes. And as nighttime sets in, small Asian dishes enter the scene: smashed cucumber, yogurt sauce, honey and spices; beef tartare, bone marrow and kimchi; crispy shallot rice, desiccated coconut and Vietnamese coriander… // Daphné Miller

FEELING THIRSTY? A knockout selection: Crémant-du-Jura from Domaine de la Pinte (€8 a glass), White Side of the Moon chardonnay from Domaine des Canailles (€45 a bottle), and Adonis, a Pineau d’Aunis from Renaud Guettier (€50). And on top of that, a fruit and herbal infusion concocted fresh every day – like the apricot, strawberry and rosemary one, the last time we went (€3.50).

PRICE: Set menus €23-30 (weekday lunch), starters and plates to share €6-14, mains €18-24, desserts €10, cuts of meat to share depending on availability.