Totto

Seismic sushi activity has been shaking up the Marché d’Aligre, ever since Nanyo Kurihashi and Izumi Terutaka set up shop there with their incredible briny den of treats. Wedged into the hull of a transformed coffee shop (blonde wooden bar, visible bricks, Japanese calligraphy noren curtains), the duo who trained at Issé is wetting the chopping block as they prepare some fascinating Japanese bites. Wolfed down the night we went, after a well-made kakuni (pork belly stewed with kombu and sliced orange in a stupefying potion of mirin with ginger and soy sauce), a series of high-quality nigiri: horse mackerel, octopus, scallop, bass, Japanese eel, raw amaebi sweet shrimp, marinated salmon roe, fatty tuna and flame-charred langoustine brushed in shrimp miso. To round out all that seafood, there’s matcha bavarois tucked up against tsubuan (chunky red bean paste) and drizzled in kuromitsu (brown sugar syrup) for dessert. Totto is definitely making waves! // Pica Bidon

FEELING THIRSTY? A boatload of natural bottles, including Artisan, an orange wine by Le Vignoble du Rêveur (€7 a glass), and Consonance, a Saumur red from Jonathan Maunoury (€45 a bottle), along with Japanese sakes – like the vivifying Keigetsu (€10 for 120 ml).
PRICE: Set menus €21-32 (lunch) and €50 (dinner). Appetizers €5-21, sushi and sashimi €25-35, dessert €6-8.