After bouncing from one pop-up to the next, the Franco-Japanese duo behind Ramen Project have finally put down roots, taking over an old crêperie just two slurps away from République and turning it into the neighborhood ramen-ya of our dreams. The decor hasn’t changed much (patterned tiles, a chunky wooden counter, classic bistro tables), save for a few Tokyo-themed pictures pinned to the stone walls. And yet, from late afternoon onwards, those in the know spill out on the sidewalk, eager to have their taste buds titillated. So, what’s drawing the crowds? Ramen done properly, with homemade broths and noodles prepared fresh on site every day. There’s the textbook shoyu ramen with its rich, not-too-salty broth topped with free-range pork and marinated egg. Even better, perhaps, is the house favorite gyokai, a turbocharged blend of chicken and pork broth finished with smoked fish oil for a double dose of umami. We also clocked the maze tantanmen, a broth-free tangle of noodles and minced pork, and the chilled hiyashi chūka, perfect on a hot summer’s day. Dessert keeps things comforting: a plump, sweet red bean mochi that does exactly what it should. · Hervé Martin

FEELING THIRSTY? Kirin beer on tap (€8 a pint), Ramune lemonade (€4.50 for 500 ml) or a homemade iced barley infusion (€3 for 250 ml).

PRICE: Ramen €13.50 to €20.50, sides €2 to €6.50, dessert €4.