Finally! A warm lagoon breeze is sweeping across Boulevard Voltaire… Osteria Gòto drenches the neighborhood in Venetian sunshine, serving crowd-pleasing cicchetti, cocktails and Italian wines. At the helm is Francesco La Porta (a fashion advertising director), who may have left the gondolas of his native Veneto behind, but has brought his flair for style and interiors with him. The result? A long, rustic-chic space with an open kitchen behind a vast counter, brutalist tables, napkins turned into lampshades and wildly Instagrammable harlequin-patterned toilets. As for the food, it’s nonna‘s cooking revisited with an acqua alta twist. Take the evening we went: after sharing a sweet-and-sour eggplant tempura taco slicked with addictive satay sauce, and the now-iconic tuna polpette with harissa mayo, we completely swooned over a brilliantly pleonastic tuna tonnato – essentially a vitello tonnato where the veal is swapped for paper-thin slices of raw tuna, served with perfectly sautéed potatoes. And for dessert? A tiramisu to die for! A direct Paris-Venice round trip, no gondola required. · Madeleine Proust

FEELING THIRSTY? Tempting cocktails for aperitivo – Bellini, Negroni, Americano (€12) – and a fine selection of organic and natural Italian wines: a friuli Bianca (€10 a glass), a montepulciano d’abruzzo from Tiberio (€52 a bottle), an orange vermentino from Senza Rete (€48) or a lambrusco from Podere Magia in Emilia-Romagna (€40).

PRICE: Set menus €18-22 (weekday lunch), appetizers €9-21, mains €22-32, desserts €9