The dust had barely settled at Café Mirabelle before a savvy new duo came in and swept the floor! A fresh lick of paint on the facade, a pared-back wood-white-brick dining room – and suddenly the neighborhood had a proper bistro again. At the helm: Emma Rajaud (formerly of the events industry) and Julien Chevallier (ex-Parcelles), now treating locals to a refined, resolutely classic lunch menu: dainty slices of calf’s head, glossed with sauce gribiche and finished with a few sprigs of parsley; a thick-cut, farm-raised pork chop, all crackling edge and melting fat, served exactly as it should be with a ladleful grandma-style mashed potatoes and a rich wholegrain mustard jus; and a silky crème caramel topped with shaved almonds to finish. Keep an eye on the daily specials, though they have a habit of nudging the bill north, with temptations like sweetbreads at €40 or turbot in beurre blanc at €38. Come evening, the menu shifts up a gear: squid with pig’s ears and cos lettuce; potato pie with chanterelles and garlic cream; or pollack with cockles, pointed cabbage and a vin jaune sabayon. · Agatha Crispy

FEELING THIRSTY? Good, clean, well-sourced wines selected by Barthélémy Gibault, Emma’s husband: Suzette, a grenache-carignan from Le Petit Oratoire (€8 a glass), Avant La Tempête, a Savoyard jacquère from Camille and Mathieu Apffel (€43 a bottle) or Puat, a robust Ardèche blend from Christian Rouchier (€64). Sober-curious? There’s Archipel fig leaf kombucha (€8 for 330 ml).

PRICE: Set menu €22 (weekday lunch), menu €50 (dinner and Saturday lunch), mains €30-44, desserts €10-13.