Annyeong Paris! Behind a demure greige facade on the quiet Rue Falguière, a refined Korean restaurant has made its nest, more Seongsu-dong chic than neighborhood barbecue joint. At the helm is Linda Lee, a globetrotting chef with six London restaurants under her belt, who’s crossed the Channel to bring her graceful, balanced vision of K-food to Paris. After On The Bab near Opéra (rice bowls, fried chicken and street food vibes), she’s moving upmarket without losing her groove: bite-sized grilled pork and shrimp mandu; hand-cut steak tartare lifted with pear and quail egg yolk; and seou gangjeong (shrimp pancakes cloaked in a spicy sweet and sour sauce) that are dangerously addictively. The headline dishes arrive bansang-style, the royal service of old: a central plate encircled by a procession of smaller side dishes, from kimchi bokkeumbap (fried rice with kimchi, shrimp, mini omelets and zucchini) or kimchi jjigae bansang (a perfectly balanced tofu, pork and kimchi stew). Don’t forget to save room for the satisfyingly sweet finale: matcha crème brûlée, black sesame doughnut filled with anko (sweet white bean paste) and a cup of ginger-yuzu tea for a gentle landing. Paris has never felt Seoul good! · Suzanne Syrah

FEELING THIRSTY? A Korean beer that does the job from start to finish (€6 for 330 ml), ginger and yuzu tea for something more restrained (€6) or a subtle soju for those keeping things resolutely Asian (€4 for 60 ml).

PRICE: Set menus €16-20 (lunch), appetizers €8-13, mains €17-22, extras €4-8, desserts €5-8.