Anima (Paris)

© Matthieu Jauniau-Dallier

  • Date
  • share

David Lanher has a real talent for unearthing beautiful old spots (Caffé Stern, Le Bon Saint PourçainRacines des Près…) and injecting them with a little soul. Just take Anima, a former tapestry studio he discovered alongside Rome-native Marco Marzilli, Daft Punk’s ex-impresario. They’ve kept the old tiling, the chunky hardwood floors and the big cathedral-like bay windows, and decked it all out in black with an emerald-veined white Calacatta marble bar and an enameled wood-fired oven. Piedmont-born chef Matteo Testa still manages the kitchen, but the pizza paddle has now changed hands, as Giovanni Garufi keeps the twenty-some pizza varieties baking. The day we went for lunch: an energetic scampi tartare combining stracciatella (a fresh cheese from Puglia) and bottarga, teased with a little lemon zest; a volcanic, spicy Calabra pizza (yellow Vesuvian tomatoes, fior di latte, n’duja, caciocavallo, oregano and basil), perfectly cooked and served on a beautiful vintage plate from Blanche Patine; before ending the meal with an excellent vanilla and raspberry panna cotta topped with a dash of balsamic. As a bonus, there’s bread from the neighboring Ten Belles Bread and coffee from the Brûlerie Giamaica Caffè in Verona, just a little further away. // D.C.

FEELING THIRSTY? Explore the whole of Italy: an organic Sicilian Pinot grigio, Auratae, from the Domaine Santa Tresa (€7 a glass); a red from Puglia, Ca 40.08 Progetto Calcarius, from Valentina Passalacqua & Danilo Marcucci (€7); and, for something a little more luxurious, a red from Abruzzo, a 2016 Cancelli from the Rabasco estate (€49 a bottle).

PRICE: Antipasti €9-21. Piatti & pasta €17-22. Pizza €12-25. Dolci €9-10.

Late-night munchies?

Le Fooding’s 2023 Guide is ready to dazzle with its brilliant selection of the year’s latest hotspots, including 500 restaurants, bars, bedrooms, shops and cellars across France; a highly-anticipated award’s list; and ever-more enlightening in-depth articles sprinkled throughout the extravagant, 228-page edition of the yearly magazine, illustrated by the crème de la crème of emerging artists.

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

Fooding® is a registered trademark.