Anima (Paris)

© Matthieu Jauniau-Dallier

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David Lanher has a real talent for unearthing beautiful old spots (Caffé Stern, Le Bon Saint PourçainRacines des Près…) and injecting them with a little soul. Just take Anima, a former tapestry studio he discovered alongside Rome-native Marco Marzilli, Daft Punk’s ex-impresario. They’ve kept the old tiling, the chunky hardwood floors and the big cathedral-like bay windows, and decked it all out in black with an emerald-veined white Calacatta marble bar and an enameled wood-fired oven. Piedmont-born chef Matteo Testa still manages the kitchen, but the pizza paddle has now changed hands, as Giovanni Garufi keeps the twenty-some pizza varieties baking. The day we went for lunch: an energetic scampi tartare combining stracciatella (a fresh cheese from Puglia) and bottarga, teased with a little lemon zest; a volcanic, spicy Calabra pizza (yellow Vesuvian tomatoes, fior di latte, n’duja, caciocavallo, oregano and basil), perfectly cooked and served on a beautiful vintage plate from Blanche Patine; before ending the meal with an excellent vanilla and raspberry panna cotta topped with a dash of balsamic. As a bonus, there’s bread from the neighboring Ten Belles Bread and coffee from the Brûlerie Giamaica Caffè in Verona, just a little further away. // D.C.

FEELING THIRSTY? Explore the whole of Italy: an organic Sicilian Pinot grigio, Auratae, from the Domaine Santa Tresa (€7 a glass); a red from Puglia, Ca 40.08 Progetto Calcarius, from Valentina Passalacqua & Danilo Marcucci (€7); and, for something a little more luxurious, a red from Abruzzo, a 2016 Cancelli from the Rabasco estate (€49 a bottle).

PRICE: Antipasti €9-21. Piatti & pasta €17-22. Pizza €12-25. Dolci €9-10.

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


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