Le Bon Saint Pourçain

Located between Saint-Sulpice and the Jardin du Luxembourg, the ultra chic Bon Saint Pourçain from serial-bistrotter David Lanher (Caffè Stern, Racine des Prés, La Crémerie, etc.) keeps its rather refined Saint-Germain-des-Prés crowd happy. The space? A midnight blue façade, Baumann chairs, scarlet banquettes, white tablecloths… and a tiny, stainless-steel-clad kitchen where Mathieu Techer (ex-Senderens and Sergent Recruteur) whips up some impressively delicate dishes. For us, the other night: stunning coalfish with perfectly pearly white flesh, served with lettuce hearts, orange slices, crisp cucumber and a Thai vinaigrette; incredibly tender roasted pork chops with yellow zucchini, an onion purée and an outstanding jus de cuisson; before our guilty pleasure, the baba au rhum topped with whipped cream. On a nearby table, we eyeballed a deboned free-range guinea fowl thigh and suprême with Noirmoutier potatoes, chard, button mushrooms and a mushroom emulsion, plus a chocolate lava cake with crème anglaise. // A.D.

FEELING THIRSTY? Wines that have been carefully cast by the sommelier Samuel Jacq (ex-Chez Michel and Racine des Prés): a Corsican Vermentino from the Domaine Arena (€7 a glass), a Coteaux-Bourguignons red from the Domaine Sextant (€49 a bottle), a Drappier blanc de blancs Champagne (€130)…

PRICE: À la carte €55-68.