Best sophistroquet of 2019
Macron was apparently right, you just need to cross the street to find work… At least for Sébastien Leroy in any case, who crosses the street multiple times a day, going between his two establishments on either side. There’s a cool wine shop on one side and a big bistro on the other, in what used to be La Marlotte. After a floor-to-ceiling makeover (whitewashed rafters and walls, blond wood furniture, comfortable black banquettes), this former institution got rid of everything from its past life – except for Rémy Noailles, the former maître d who is now the professional commentator on natural wines and carries out Sébastien Leroy’s brutalist plates with panache. Our lunch that day: a beautiful lightly grilled pork head covered in thinly-sliced raw fennel and parsley; delightful pan-fried veal sweetbreads with flash-seared whole carrots; before a tasty pear poached with verbena and served with yogurt ice cream. All with subtle music playing in the background: Ann Peebles, Darondo… It’s worth noting that from Tuesday to Saturday, Sauvage also sends out stunning small plates at the bar (foie gras, cured meats, cheeses…) and that the original spot at n°60 on the same street now acts as a cave à manger.
FEELING THIRSTY? Natural bottles galore: a Loire white from Philippe Chevarin (€7 a glass) or a Loire red from Le Haut-Planty (€30 a bottle), a white Roussillon from Le Clos Massotte (€38), an Alsace Pinot noir from Rieffel (€117 for a magnum).
PRICE: Menu €65, à la carte €45-62. Small plates €8-16, snacks €9-16 (at n°60).