Les Caves Madeleine
In this wooden wine bar, you’ll find a long table d’hôte for 12 guests that’s tightly squeezed up against the wall of bottles… Welcome to Martial Blanchon’s place (ex-Villa Mas in Saint Feliu de Guíxols), who treats his guests to excellent Burgundy wines and outstanding cuisine. The night we went was a real treat! As an appetizer, a warm and crisp red cabbage salad that was finely chopped and mixed with farm-fresh bacon from the Ferme du Jointout (€14). For the main, there was mallard duck caught by French hunters – roasted breast meat with crispy skin and thighs confit – on a bed of carrots, chioggia beets and small chickpeas, in a star anise jus (€25). For dessert, there were poached peaches in verbena, with a scoop of vanilla ice cream (€9). The lunchtime menu is just as impressive (€23), featuring the likes of: warm leeks, a poached egg from Le Poiset and Comté shortbread; roasted mackerel with Meyer lemon pulp; rice pudding with salted caramel whipped cream. And to drink, all of Burgundy is present: an Aligoté from La Maison Fatien (€6 a glass), a Hautes-Côtes-de-Nuits red from La Maison Romane (€8), a Bourgogne red from the Domaine Chandon de Briailles (€36 a bottle), etc. And don’t forget about the local stars: Comtes Lafaon, Moret, Génot-Boulanger, Bonneau du Martray, Grivot… Menus €23 (lunch) and €55 (dinner), à la carte €38-52. // D.C.