Les Vieilles Canailles
Right near Place Gilly, the tiny bustling bistro run by Pierre Hochard (who previously worked at Le Louis XV in Monaco and the Westminster) is filled with wines produced by friends and carefully sourced ingredients (octopus from Marseille, truffles from the Gordes Mountain, sucking pigs from Haut d’Albion, etc.), which he transforms into graceful dishes on the stunning lunch menu (€23). The day we went: parsnip and sunchoke velouté with a bacon-infused cream (or an endive and bacon salad); duck confit from the Puntoun farm with potatoes and Brussel sprouts (or a wonderful spelt risotto with cream from Bayard and strips of black truffles from the Luberon); before a thin apple tart that really hits the spot, while reading a copy of Le Canard enchaîné newspaper that’s lying around. And there’s nothing but clean wines to wash it all down: Bourgogne Aligoté from Bzikot (€4.50 a glass), a fine Bourgueil Avis de Vin Fort from the Bretons (€20 a bottle) or a Coteaux-du-Libron La Pierre Figée from the Domaine d’Emile et Rose (€21). Menu option €14-23 (lunch). À la carte €34-41. // A.S.