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Les Vieilles Canailles

Les Vieilles Canailles (Aix-en-Provence)

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With its big wine barrels at the entrance, rows of bottles and the famous Epaulé-Jeté poster by Michel Tolmer hanging on the wall, the Vieilles Canailles bistro has become the #1 spot for wine-loving Aix locals and well-informed tourists. The reason for its success? The resolutely cheeky dishes dreamt up by Pierre Hochart (ex-Ducasse in Monaco) and the outstanding wines that have been carefully selected to go with them. The other day at lunch, the menu featured: a gigantic piece of bone marrow roasted with herbs; conger from Marseille in a fish soup that smelled beautifully of fennel and star anise – or a big yellow zucchini stuffed with creamy burrata; before an impeccable tarte Tatin made with apples and redcurrants from the garden, served with a spoonful of crème fraîche. And the blackboard dinner menu featured pork trotter carpaccio, braised veal chuck steak and roasted vegetables, free-range guinea fowl ballotine stuffed with walnuts, cheeses from Banon, a Paris-Brest for dessert… // M.F.

FEELING THIRSTY? Only good things: a blanc de blancs Champagne from Les Vieilles Canailles (€7 a glass), a local red from the Domaine de Belambrée (€24 a bottle), a Bandol rosé from Baravéou (€35)…

PRICE: Menu €19-23 (lunch), à la carte €31-45 (dinner).

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
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