Le Fooding Guide’s 2015 best bar à délices
The tiny Mandoobar got a whole new look during the summer 2018. Korean chef Kim Kwang-Loc and his team now work with their backs to a red brick wall, behind a long blonde wood and cement bar. For everything else, you can rest easy, the mandoo (dumplings made with a wheat and sticky rice flour dough, a cousin of the Japanese gyoza) are just as outstanding as ever. The day we went for lunch, there were all kinds of freshly made addictive mouthfuls served in bamboo steamer baskets and stuffed with kimchi, Asian cabbage and tofu, shrimp and black mushroom, or, for us, bulgogi beef (from €9 to €12 for eight). Then followed a parade of beef, tuna and sea bream tartares (from €10 to €12) and an excellent Korean salad of cabbage, soy beans, pepper and yellow radish (€6). For dessert, there are homemade ice creams: yuzu-mint, passion fruit-ginger, pandan-buckwheat, lemongrass-caramel… (€5). And to drink, there’s a beautiful selection of Korean green teas, either fermented or semi-fermented (from €7 to €9), Korean Max beer (€6 for 330 ml), or even bokbunjaju, a traditional liqueur made with wild blackberries (€18 for 375 ml). Dumplings €8-10 for six, €9-12 for eight, €10-13 for ten. // S.L.