Roots

Roots? The most apt word for Kim Devisschere’s open kitchen restaurant, which is nestled in a brick house in the Patershol district, with a patio out back. After years spent working at other big names in the Ghent foodosphere (Publiek, Volta, Horseele), he’s returning to his roots and his love affair with all things roots and tubers, alongside his partner, Nele Victoor, in the dining room. On the menu that evening: appetizers, like the Pas-de-Rouge cheese and kimchi croquette served with a beautiful Zeeland mussel marinated in herbs; a Belgian pure-bred beef tartare with marinated yellow beetroot, horseradish and an olive oil and yogurt sorbet, all topped with herring roe. Next came a fine display of fish: pan-fried haddock fillet and pointed cabbage swimming with grey shrimp in a shrimp bisque; slow-roasted whole pollack with celeriac and pickled shiitakes – to die for; and pan-fried calamari with baby spinach, fermented garlic and elderflower vinegar. Before a rack of veal cooked sous vide and smoked on the BBQ, wheat risotto, asparagus, and a tomme cheese and veal sweetbread croquette. Sublime! And the dessert was just as mmm! with a rhubarb “crème brûlée,” vanilla ice cream, magnolia foam and white chocolate crumble. // Louis Sipido

FEELING THIRSTY? Sulfite-free, winey gems: NoLem, a Loire melon from Complémen’Terre (€8 a glass), Trenzado, a Spanish listán blanco from Suertes del Marques (€11), or FAK, a Catalan red from Finca Parera (€60 a bottle)

PRICE: Menus €45-58 (lunch) and €75-88.