Sugaar

If you happen to be on an excursion to the hot Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood, you may notice people hungry for hype dragging their sugaar daddies and mommies to this voyeuristic spot with braised Basque beauties. Once you’ve made your way past the intriguing club-style entrance, you might run into Alexis Poivre and Joachim Rappaport (who run things here), model and photographer Cate Underwood (who did the artistic direction for the place) or chef Anton Vasyliev, who’s not camera shy either. The night we went, seated in the classy upstairs area with white tablecloths, candles and beautiful tableware, we encountered a festival of high-class products brushed by the flames: generous pan-fried wild mushrooms (chanterelle, hedgehog, porcini and oyster mushrooms) with an egg yolk acting as sauce – or a luxurious beef carpaccio cut from the rib, complemented by an herbaceous olive oil and yuzu zest; classic Simmental txuleta (prime rib), dry-aged for 25 days and cooked to perfection, served with roasted peppers and a charred potato mousse; before an elegant scoop of chocolate mousse, paired wonderfully with olive-oil-infused crème anglaise. // Albertine Simonet 

FEELING THIRSTY? An iconoclastic wine list put together by Joachim: Les Calcinaires, a Côtes-Catalanes red from the Domaine Gauby (€13 a glass), a Touraine Chenin from Le Clos de Mosny produced by Jacky Blot (€69 a bottle), red vermouth from Del Professore (€10 a glass)… 
PRICE: Shared appetizers €15-28, meats €100-150 (for two), desserts €12.