La Table de Mee

The Gwom family is doubling down! After Bistrot Mee, tucked away between the Jardins des Tuileries and Palais-Royal, they’ve opened another spot in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood, this time in the form of a sophisticated bistro with unfinished walls and a wooden bar. For the occasion, they poached the unstoppable master of beverages Zachary Buis (ex-Gaya and Pilgrim), who pairs craft beers and natural wines with the small, tasty Asian dishes coming from the kitchen. Snatched up the other night: a hearty plate of cabbage and white radish that had been given the kimchi treatment; a hand-cut steak tartare (which could have used a little more seasoning, to be honest), topped with an egg yolk and slivered pear; delicious breaded hake fillets seasoned unfussily with sel de Guérande and chopped chives; chicken thigh slivers that were delightfully fatty, sautéed in a wok with onions, leeks and spicy chilies, all calmed by a bowl of white rice; before a lovely vanilla ice cream sprinkled with black sesame seeds. // Gwen Jacquère

FEELING THIRSTY? A drink menu that addresses the needs of contemporary diners: beer from La Sainte Brasserie Cantillon (€8 for 370 ml), a Touraine Sauvignon from Noëlla Morantin (€8 a glass), a Jura Trousseau produced by Bénédicte and Stéphane Tissot (€59 a glass), a Puligny-Montrachet from the Domaine Étienne Sauzet (€99)…
PRICE: Appetizers €6-9, mains €14-19, desserts €6-8.