restaurant

Trente

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It all began at De Oesterbar in Amsterdam, where Bart Springael crossed paths with David Daenens, who was washing dishes to pay his way through interior design school. Fast-forward to 2006, and the pair ditched the scrubbing sponges and opened their own restaurant, with Bart in the kitchen and David bringing the vibe to the dining room. Twenty years on, they unveiled the brand-new Trente 3.0, a minimalist space (blond wood tables, white-to-blue ombré curtains, a terracotta counter) designed exactly to their measure, seating just 14 lucky diners. On the wall, a painting by the chef himself, a blurry black-and-blue monochrome nodding to Barnett Newman, sets the tone for the meticulous choreography of the meal to come. After four amuse-bouches – including an excellent fresh fromage blanc fringed with herbs, cucumber and borage, topped with a yogurt whey vinaigrette with fines herbes oil – the procession unfolded: rainbow trout with Chantenay carrot in various textural forms, doused in a mandarin vinaigrette enhanced with fish roe and ponzu; turbot served with creamy celeriac purée and a champagne emulsion; gleaming scallops with homemade XO sauce, Hokkaido cream and a chilled beurre blanc infused with sea buckthorn; followed by honey-mirin-glazed guinea fowl studded with coriander seeds, plus parsnip, parsley root purée and a duo of sauces – including a superb black trumpet mushroom condiment. All before wrapping up the meal in style with camembert au Calvados (rind soaked in Calvados brandy) paired with roasted apple compote, pecan crumble and a smooth date cream. · Schannul

FEELING THIRSTY? Kick dinner off with a glass of Premier Cru Brut Champagne from Maison Autréau de Champillon (€17) and finish with a Barbeito madeira wine (€12 per glass).
PRICE: €95 menu (five courses).

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