It’s all change (again) for Winery! After bursting the restaurant Pénar like a butterfly out of its Ixelles chrysalis, Paul Ravet is now bringing the good-time vibes to the sleepy Boitsfort neighborhood. Dimmed lights, walls lined with bottles, and a long bar overlooking the kitchen action: the atmosphere makes you want to lick the plates clean while gazing lovingly into your dinner date’s eyes. And oh boy, what plates! The night we went, we opted for the five-course menu, kicked off by a series of funky amuse-bouches: mouthwatering leek vinaigrette with oyster and jalapeño; celeriac risotto brightened with a punchy vadouvan spice blend; scallop and sunchoke millefeuille drizzled in a scallop beard jus whipped with smoked butter; stunning stuffed duck dressed in a mustardy jus, served with sweet potatoes and pan-fried black trumpet mushrooms; and finally, a silky blancmange with meringue, a honey tuile and jasmine ice cream. Ready for another round? · Jean-Eude d’Aye-Quiry

FEELING THIRSTY? Let the good times roll with naturally-inclined wines handpicked by Karine Saab (ex-Lopin in Paris) and Emmanuel Perceau (ex-Buvette in Saint-Gilles): Les Claviers 2016, a Languedoc rancio from Domaine de La Garance (€9.20 a glass), Vieilles Vignes 2021, a brouilly from Jean-Claude Lapalu (€34.50 a bottle) and Traminer 2017, a savagnin ouillé from Bénédicte and Stéphane Tissot (€56).

PRICE: Lunch €26-32-40 (2-3-4 courses), dinner €58-68-78 (4-5-6 courses), wine pairing €32-40-48 (4-5-6 glasses), non-alcoholic drink pairing €24-30-36.