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Boulangerie Perlimpainpain

Boulangerie Perlimpainpain (Saint-Mandé)

© Boulangerie Perlimpainpain

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At this unassuming little bakery, Xuan Wei and Raphaël Guillou knead loaves of bread behind the window display, drawing in lovers of tangy sourdough in the process! After leaving the world of finance behind, this duo has dedicated themselves to the art of slow fermentations, using techniques Xuan honed at Ten Belles (Paris), Hamblin Bread (London) and Lillebrors Bageri (Stockholm). Snatched up from the counter display the day we went: their signature crusty loaf, available with or without seeds, made from a blend of three locally-grown heirloom flours, stiff sourdough starter and coarse grey sea salt from Guérande; a square-shaped loaf made with whole-grain rice flour and buckwheat levain; and an impossibly soft and pillowy shokupan (Japanese milk bread) made with a panettone levain base. In the mood for a late-afternoon snack? There are some delicious shortbread cookies made with banana, pecans, coconut oil and maple syrup, along with brioche, crustless chocolate flan and even pineapple brioche buns with a crackly sugar topping, a nod to the baker’s Taiwanese roots. · Scotty Lard

THE HIDDEN GEM: The bread of the day, studded with Kalamata olives and aromatic Herbes de Provence (€15/kg).

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