Liberté, égalité, golden crust! On Place de la Fraternité, in the heart of happening Montreuil, François Massonnet is championing the people’s right to great bread. A former co-founder of Montreuil institution Fournil Éphémère and now running bakery-sandwich shop Ed’s in Paris’s 18th arrondissement, the sourdough maestro has teamed up with Alexandre Masson (a former Paris firefighter who remains a reservist at the Drancy station) to make seriously good bread. It’s a friendship built on water and organic flour, now rising nicely in this light-filled bakery-workshop, turning out fragrant loaves (with a lower “fraternal” price for anyone feeling the pinch), cloud-soft Japanese milk bread, crafty sandwiches and plump brioches. · Mina Pavlova
Shopping list: A flawless sourdough country loaf (€7.20 per kg, or €5.20 at the “fraternal” price) and hefty, buttery madeleines (€2.50 each).
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