We’ve got a live one in Saint-Victor! Right next to the neighborhood bakery, Anthony Abelaud (a former stage manager) opened up L’Écaillerie, a sunny spot that runs on shellfish platters. Inside this shiny seashell of a space (waxed concrete floors, big stone walls, stylish neon lights), there’s everything you could need for a massive feast: sea urchins from Carry, palourde clams from Marseille, oysters from the Camargue, along with flathead grey mullet carpaccio, shrimp and oysters from the Oléron. The cherry on top? The seafood platters are also served with some insanely good black garlic mayonnaise. Feel like breaking bread in house? On nights and weekends, chef Cheickh Diouf prepares some really nice small plates: excellent homemade taramasalata, delicious mussels with ‘nduja, intense Cantabrian anchovies with bottarga, delightful pasta with pesto, sea beans, prawns and almonds… // Juliette Mallat 

The hidden gem: Fried octopus balls served with chipotle and ginger mayo (€12), even better with the La Pique hot sauce.