In the name of the father! While the storefront at Louis Opsital’s delicatessen hasn’t changed a bit since 1971, these days it’s his son Éric who’s running things. The star delicatessen greets Joey Starr with a kiss on either cheek, and provides Ibaïama ham to the best chefs in France and the Navarre region of Spain. You’re basically dealing with the Rolls Royce of ham here: it’s always 100% Basque, rubbed with salt and aged for 18 months, according to time-honored porky traditions. On Rue Jean-Lissar, expect to find a line of locals waiting their turn to order some of the sacrosanct charcuterie, along with other reputable gems, like chipolata sausages, pâté or saucisson… This place is truly the Holy Grail of gras! // Andrée Berthon

Hidden gem: His royal highness, the house’s famous Ibaïama ham (€64/kg)! Or a slice of the fabulous Amatxi pâté (€4.50 for 130 g).